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In my search for America

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Somos en escrito The Latino Literary Online Magazine

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U.S. Marines in Tsingtao, China, during 
Operation Beleaguer (1945-49)*


A Chicano Christmas in China

By Felipe de Ortego y Gasca

This is a story about a Christmas in China after World War II and how the world chang­ed for me as a consequence of that Christmas. Hard to believe that almost six decades have passed since VJ Day (Victory in Japan, August 14, 1945) and the end of hostilities for World War Two.
By Christmas of 1945 the war had been over more than four months, just after President Tru­man had authorized dropping an atom bomb on Hiroshima on August 6 and one on Nagasaki on August 8.
I felt ancient at war’s end. War has a way of ma­turing youngsters, growing them up quickly. There is also a mantle of invincibility that cloaks the young, woven of equal parts of arrogance and igno­rance, strands of curiosity, and large patch­es of naiveté. It’s a wonderful time of life: full of joy one thinks will last forever; full of agony that seems inter­minable.
I was a Sergeant of Marines then, filled with the exuberance of victory marking the end of a life and death struggle between the forces of good and evil, a struggle that claimed 50 million lives worldwide.
I was 19 years old that August and the fates had kept me from harm thus far. Just two years earlier, on my 17th birth­day, I had enlisted in the Marines, during the dark, grim days of the war when victory appeared implausible and the fate of democracy hung in the balance.
The San Antonio of 1941, where a branch of my mother’s family settled in 1731, was a place of “brown blood and white laughter” as I wrote in a poem years later, remembering the city’s segre­gated schools and its English-only rules. Though the war trans­formed the city economically, a different kind of war would vanquish the barriers that had made San Antonio a divided community and strangers of Teja­nos in their own land.
At war, Tejanos showed their mettle, Boys became men. The League of United Latin American Citizens (LULAC) sus­pended its annual conferences for the duration. On the home front, Mexicana Americans built planes, subs, and gliders; handed out donuts and coffee to Amer­ica’s youth training at Fort Sam Houston, Kelly, and Lack­land Air Force bases in San Antonio. Many became air raid wardens. On the West Side, Teja­na mothers placed gold stars in their windows.
On the day of infamy, I wondered if I could pass for 17, hoping the war would wait for me. I tried to enlist in the Army in 1942 but was turn­ed away be­cause I was too young at 15 for military service they told me even though the coun­try was desperate for troops. I got as far as the physical before I was found out and turned away with an admonishment veiling a smile and an encourage­ment to try again next year. Did I know, they asked, that I had flat feet?
By next year, I thought, there would be no glory left. But I waited, tough­ing out the 9th grade of school. I should have been a Ju­nior but instead I was a high­ school Freshman, two years older than my classmates because I had re­peated the 1st grade and had been held back in the 4th. I started public school as a speaker of Spa­nish in segregated schools and didn’t improve until I made it to the 5th grade.
In January of 1943 I tried enlisting in the Navy but was re­jected because of “color blindness,” not because of my age. When I turned 17 that year, I tried the Ma­rines, color blindness, flat feet and all. They accepted me, and after boot-camp at Parris Island, South Caro­lina, I was assigned to the Marine Air Station at Cher­ry Point, North Caroli­na, from where I was sent to the 8th and I (Eye) Marine barracks in Washington, DC. From there I was ordered to the Marine barracks at Air Station Quantico, Virginia, from where I shipped out to the Pacific. After a stop at San Diego and Oahu in the Hawaiian Islands, I was part of the tail-end of the last campaigns in the Pacific.
When Japan surrendered, Amer­ican GI’s in the Pacific were group­ed into those who had earned sufficient points for immedi­ate return to the states and a victor’s welcome, and those who didn’t. Wartime service was after all for the “duration” and the war was not officially over until December of 1946 even though the fighting had ended more than a year earlier.
Troops not returned to the states were massed into a force of military occupation for Japan and those headed for mainland China as an army of liberation to disarm the Japanese troops in China and to oversee their evacuation.  China had been occupied by the Japanese since the 30's and at the outbreak of hostili­ties had in­terned the 4th Marines who had been sta­tioned in Shanghai. China would be freed at last.
The hop from Okinawa to Shang­hai was short. On that rain-wash­ed day I did not know my journey to China would mark the beginning of my search for America.
An early day harbinger of Battle­star Galacti­ca, the rag-tag fleet of American ships trail­ing up the Yang­tze River toward Shanghai was heralded with cheers of jubi­lation and gratitude by the Chinese. “Ding hao!” they shouted. “Ding hao! Good, good!” But that mood quick­ly sour­ed when the hive of sampans crowd­ed the spa­ces be­tween the ships and the smiling Chi­nese held out their hands for some token of largesse signaling our arrival.
What turned the scene ugly was when the Captain of the U.S.S. Monro­via ordered the fire hoses turned on the Chinese clambering up the sides of the ship trying to get on deck. The Chinese were eager to greet us, but that greeting was met with disdain by those Americans who saw the Chinese as nothing more than “gooks” and could not differentiate them from the Japanese.
The force of the water hoses sent the Chinese back into the mass of sampans, some of them falling into the water through the spaces between the flat dugouts. The scene became a melee when the sailors decided malevolently to aim their hoses at the people on the sampans. The Chinese were bewildered. Why would a liberating force treat them that way? Chi­nese women screamed as their babies were flushed out of their hands by the force of the water from the fire hoses.
What should have been a celebration became a melee of confusion and grief. That was not our finest moment. Those images have remained with me ever since. Little wonder we lost China to Mao Tse­tung in 1948, forced to take our troops to Korea. I was gone by then. I left China in 1946.
But the specter of that moment did not deter me from savoring the experience of being in China, the land of Cathay, of Marco Polo and Genghis Khan. The Yellow Sea washing against a land al­ready an­cient when the sailors of Colón flitted from fleck to fleck looking for Cipango (Japan) was not yellow but emerald green in the time of my youth when all my dreams were green. Years later I would realize what a profound effect that experience in China had on me.
My stay in Shanghai was brief. My outfit moved on. I was as­signed to temporary duty with the 6th Marines in Peking and Tientsin. I was post­ed to duty with Marine Air Group (MAG) 24, First Marine Air Wing at Tsing­tao, a key airfield in the Japanese occupation of the Shantung Peninsula just across from Korea.
Tsing­tao is a port city and at war’s end was once more bustling with the hum of interna­tional trade. In Tsing­tao (which sounded like Ching­doh) I was look­ed upon with puzzle­ment. Was I an Ameri­can Chinese? A Migua Chinee? They had never seen a Mexican American before. Yes, I nod­ded, good-naturedly. “Ding hao, ding hao!” Good, good! the Chinese re­sponded with smiles of approbation.
Was I the first Chicano in China? No. Twenty-five years later in El Paso I would meet a Chicano, Cleofas Callero, who had been a China Marine in the years between the World Wars. There were probably others before him.
Some 30 years later, Carlos Guerra, the journalist from San Antonio would travel to China. So would Patricia Roybal of El Paso and her husband Chuck Sutton, heir of the publisher of The Amsterdam News. And in the 80's Rudy Anaya, the Chicano novelist, from Albuquerque, New Mexico would ven­ture to China and record his impressions in a work entitled A Chicano in China.
My affection for the Chinese was regarded with mischief as word spread that the Sarge was a Chink-lover. Fortunately, hierarchy and rank are powerful investitures in the military, especially the Marines. The troops may have disliked my affection for the Chinese but they took orders from me, like them or not. Every day I dress­ed down some troop for diss­ing the Chinese. They were not our beasts of burden, though we employed them on the air base as if they were.
In China, American forces rode roughshod over the Chinese, acting more like Alex­ander’s Macedonian soldiers than emissaries of freedom. The Chinese quick­ly saw me as a friend. I was invited into their homes. I became good at ping-pong. I went everywhere with confidence.
American troops in China, as almost everywhere else, did not carry currency. Instead we were issued scrip—paper money backed by the U.S. Armed Forces. Chinese money was out of the question. With infla­tion, Chinese money was almost useless. GI’s col­lected it as souvenirs or for prospective wallpaper.
The brothel of “white” Rus­sian women in Tsing­tao preferred goods for their services. Ciga­rettes were most prefer­able. Chi­nese mer­chants accepted scrip which they exchanged for currency. In Peking, Chiang Kai-shek was strug­gling to stabilize the mone­tary woes of the country.
One evening, not long after I arrived at Tsing­tao, the base res­ponded to a fire alarm in the city. The British Officer’s Club had caught fire and needed help in put­ting out the blaze. The fear was that the fire would spread into the city and become harder to control. From the airbase, three run­way fire trucks with foam scream­ed into the night roaring to­ward the glow of the fire in the distance.
As NCO of the day, I was responsible for dis­patching the fire trucks. The old China Marines used to tell stories about Chinese fire drills which I didn’t understand until the night of that fire in Tsingtao.
What confronted us was both risible and tragic. Attempting to put water on the fire were Chinese fire­men struggling with old-fashioned wheeled water pumps. One man pumped while the other directed the hose barely trickling onto the fire. The Chinese fire­men smiled politely as they greeted us. We ushered them out of the way, and quickly funneled a sheet of foam over the fire. We had arrived just in time. Though the Chinese firemen could not have contained the fire, their efforts had given us suf­ficient time to get there and to put the blaze out.
I recognized that the caricature of Chi­nese inept­ness was compounded by their lack of avail­able tech­nology. Mao Tse­tung recognized that lack also which is why he launched the Chi­nese Revolution. China had to enter the modern age despite its legacy as a victim of colonialism.
The week before Christmas some of the men in my troop wondered if we could find a Christ­mas tree in the hills beyond the air base. “Whadaya think, Sarge?”
“Sure, why not?” We weren’t prohibited from go­ing into the hills, though we were counseled to be care­ful. The Chinese Communists had been massing in the North and there were reports that some of their units were heading south.
I check­ed out a truck from the motor pool and with a patrol of men headed toward the rise of hills some four or five miles west of the base. Once there, we head­ed off-road toward a clump of Chinese pine trees and settled on a good-sized tree that we chopp­ed down quick­ly and load­ed onto the truck. As we were ready to mount up and head back to the base, one of the men called out, “Sarge, take a look!”
Coming out through the trees were a number of platoons armed with carbines and wearing drab uniforms with no insignia. The one who seem­ed to be the leader came up to the truck, surveyed it, walked around to­wards the front where I was standing, all the while with his finger on the trigger of what look­ed like a rapid-fire carbine.  His men stayed at a distance but with fingers at the ready on the triggers of their weapons.
We had brought axes not weapons. I was the only one with a sidearm. I beseeched my men to stay calm. I could see they were nervous. But they were sea­soned men. I mustered a subtle smile as the leader of the hostiles acknowledged me and proceeded to inspect the cab of the truck.
On the passenger side of the cab lay the book in Spanish I had been reading off and on for some time: La Vida Trágica, The Trag­ic Sense of Life, by the Spanish philosopher, Mi­guel de Unamuno. Picking up the book, the leader of the armed men who by that time we had all surmised were Chinese com­munists, asked: “Y este libro, de quién es? Whose book is this?” I was startled by the expression, little expect­ing a Chinese to speak Spa­nish, at that moment and in that place. “Mine,” I said. “Es el mío.”
“Hm,” he murmured, pursing his lips, studying me intently for a moment. He put the book back on the seat of the cab and mustering an equally subtle smile motioned his men back into the anonymity of the woods. Before disappearing into the trees, the leader turned and with a most subtle smile, waved. I waved back wan­ly, relieved that the inci­dent turned out as it had.
“What was that all about, Sarge?” one of the men asked.
“I don’t know,” I said. “I don’t know.”
Years later I would know, years after I had ac­quired a struc­ture of knowledge into which to fit that experience. One day, epiphanous­ly, I understood the significance of that moment in North China and the Christmas tree incident of that December.
By then the homecoming parades had all been held and the heroes all properly heralded. The Unit­ed States was almost back to normal. Uniforms with plast­rons of medals had been hung in closets for a day when they would no longer fit. I was ready to begin my search for Amer­ica.
The roots of that search lay in China where I saw “the others” and saw myself in them. Though I had grown up in a segregated soci­ety I had never thought of myself as “the other.”
But the war changed me and the way I was to see myself in the context of the United States. I learned that no matter that Mexican Americ­ans had won more Med­als of Honor than any other ethnic group in America’s defense, we would have to fight far fiercer battles to secure for ourselves and our children the fruits of Amer­ican democracy.
Though I had completed only one year of high school, nevertheless on the GI Bill I went to college after the war at the Univer­sity of Pittsburgh where in text after text I studied I did not find myself nor my people. I did not find my people in the texts I stu­died at the University of Texas either where I pursued the Master’s degree in English. They were also not in the texts I studied at the University of New Mex­ico where I completed the Ph.D. in English renaissance studies, Amer­ican literature, and Behavioral Linguistics. And because I could not find Mex­ican Americans in those texts, my life’s work became a crusade for their inclusion.
In 1947 the city of Three Rivers, Texas, shame­lessly refused to bury in its municipal cemetery a Mexican Ame­rican GI whose body had been exhumed in the Philippines and brought home for a hero’s burial. Adamantly the white city power brokers would not yield from their decision. At that point Sen­ator Lyndon Baines Johnson approach­ed President Truman on the matter and he directed that Felix Longo­ria be buried in Arling­ton Cemetery among the valiant of the nation.
Out of that incident emerged the American GI Fo­rum, a separate organization for Mexican American veterans, an organization I joined. Since then, numerous like incidents have necessitated creation of many separate Mex­ican Amer­ican organizations. It didn’t need to be that way. Once, we were all brothers-in-arms.
In my search for America, I have often thought of that young Chinese communist who bade me good luck in a language my country sought to strip me of. I have thought often of that China of so long ago. Once, I harbored thoughts of returning to China to look for that young man who had perhaps read Una­muno’s Tragic Sense of Life−in Span­ish and who at that moment may have seen me not as a Migua Chi­nese but as a literary kinsman.
Who was he? And how had he come to learn Spanish? Was he perhaps a child of a Chinese Communist who had participated in the Spanish Civil War of the mid ‘30’s and was now a Maoist? Hm? The question has remained pervasive for me during all these years.
Thinking back—over the years—the gains have been worth the struggle. Mexican Americans did their part in World War II. And in subsequent conflicts as well as prior wars.
This is our country, too, for we are in the land of our ancestors when this part of the United States was Mexico; and when it has called, we have served.  But I’m still looking for America, in the nooks and crannies of those years since VJ Day, the end of World War II, and that Christmas in China.

Felipe de Ortego y Gasca is Scholar in Residence (Cultural Studies, Critical Theory, and Social Policy) and Distinguished Professor Emeritus of Philology and Cultural Studies at Texas State University System-Sul Ross. This memoir, which first appeared in the Alpine Avalanche, August 3, 1995, was presented at the Multi-Ethnic Christmas Celebration hosted by the Jernigan Library, Texas A&M University-Kingsville, December 6, 2004, and includes material from the author’s piece in 1941: Texas goes to War, University of North Texas Press, 1991. Copyright ©2001 by the author. All rights reserved.

*Photograph by U.S. Marine Corps, http://www.qingdaonese.com/us-marines-in-qingdao-1945-48/, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=32891790

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